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My K5 and my USB self-powered hubs (2.0 and 3.0) can't come to terms as to who should power who.
Sometimes, when I turn off my PC, even if I flip off it's power supply switch, the K5 remains powered. For example, the ethernet port's lights remain on. They only go out if I disconnect my powered hubs.
Some other times, when I turn off my PC, it shuts down but the devices plugged into the USB hubs remain powered, like the keyboard. If I pull off the hub's USB connection to the PC, the devices power off, even if I let the hub's power supply connected (which is the expected and desired state - pc off, devices off, even with power supplies connected).
What's wrong here? I don't think my motherboard should be being powered by my USB hub. Is this expected of the 3.1 and/or 3.1 USB-C ports? Should this be expected of the 3.0 ports? I can't remember now which ports I was using because I left the cables disconnected many days ago. Now I made sure to connect only to USB 3.0 ports to see if this will keep happening.
Thanks for any explanation.
PS: I had to rewrite this post 3 times because I use a mac at work with a weird windows keyboard, so my command key is at the same place of the alt key on my home windows notebook. I kept pushing alt+left (browser's back function) when I wanted control+left to just jump back a word. Going back one page loses what you've wrote - 3 times was the charm for me to stop being a lazy ass and open a notepad window. You may laugh at my predicament, at least a laugh is something positive!
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Ethernet adapters can work differently depending on the power management settings. Even if WOL is enabled in the BIOS and under the power management settings for the adapter then a complete PC power off state will cause the lights on the Ethernet adapter to go off. If your PC goes into a sleep or hibernate state (s3 or s4) then the lights on the Ethernet adapter will remain on. I have seen some mention of the Windows FAST startup causing WOL issues but I use FAST startup enabled under Power Management with W10 and I still get lights on the Ethernet adapter in sleep mode.
Self-powered USB hubs are used to supply additional current to multiple USB devices plugged into the hub and then the hub into a single USB port. This typically avoids the situation where the sum of the currents across the USB devices exceed the current rating for a single USB port. A very common situation with older USB 2 ports and high current draw USB 2 devices.
Depending on the BIOS power settings, USB 3 ports can be left on to provide voltage and charging current to attached devices such as a cell phone.
USB-C ports only supply 5V and external power sources can supply power and even charge laptops via the USB-C port. If you try to use a SATA to USB-C adapter with a 3.5" HD then it's not going to work as 3.5" HDs typically require 12v in addition to 5v.
Note: Be sure to use USB devices that negotiate power draw with the host or you might run into issues.
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Thank you for your response. What you described is what I expected, but here's what happens sometimes:
1) After a power off, with no power source (power cable disconnected), the ethernet port's lights are still on and blinking. If I disconnect the USB hub cables, they go off.
2) Sometimes, the same happens with the tower/case's power led.
3) Other times, it's the other way around: pc goes entirely off but devices connected to the hubs stay on.
Thank you for your response. What you described is what I expected, but here's what happens sometimes:
1) After a power off, with no power source (power cable disconnected), the ethernet port's lights are still on and blinking. If I disconnect the USB hub cables, they go off.
2) Sometimes, the same happens with the tower/case's power led.
3) Other times, it's the other way around: pc goes entirely off but devices connected to the hubs stay on.
Any clues about this behaviour?
Thanks
When I was building my system, I ran into the same problem. I'm fairly certain the hub is you're problem. I have an nxtz internal USB hub, which is powered by a power supply connector. When I was setting up my cooling system, I had everything unplugged from the motherboard except for the case/usb connectors. A good portion of my board was powered up by feedback from the USB hub. Although the power supply was disconnected from the motherboard, the power went from the hub and fed back through the usb connector on the mainboard and supplied power to the boards 5v circuit. I figured it didn't matter on my internal hub, as the power will go on and off with the power supply, but an external hub should have a diode or something to prevent any power feedback on usb cable. I suggest you find a better usb hub.
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Wow, that's a real bummer. I would've thought the motherboard should prevent this from happening, as it should be outputting electricity from its usb ports, not taking it in. This was, in fact, my original doubt with this post.
As it is, I don't see a good solution. I've never seen a usb hub that advertises this "feature", and I won't go buying them in lots to see which one works with the motherboard. My usb 2.0 hub is a chinese unbranded one from dealextreme (although I've used it with lots of desktops and laptops without issue for years), but the 3.0 one seemed reliable and had lots of good reviews where I bought it (Amazon).
I use my desktop pc from a distance and so the hubs are on 10 meter cables (which are themselves powered too, I forgot about that - one is 2.0, the other 3.0). I'll try taking out the power supply from the cables and keep the hubs with power, then the opposite to see if I get a solution. Right now I can't power on my computer without going to it and taking out all usb cables, which is a pita.
Wow, that's a real bummer. I would've thought the motherboard should prevent this from happening, as it should be outputting electricity from its usb ports, not taking it in. This was, in fact, my original doubt with this post.
As it is, I don't see a good solution. I've never seen a usb hub that advertises this "feature", and I won't go buying them in lots to see which one works with the motherboard. My usb 2.0 hub is a chinese unbranded one from dealextreme (although I've used it with lots of desktops and laptops without issue for years), but the 3.0 one seemed reliable and had lots of good reviews where I bought it (Amazon).
I use my desktop pc from a distance and so the hubs are on 10 meter cables (which are themselves powered too, I forgot about that - one is 2.0, the other 3.0). I'll try taking out the power supply from the cables and keep the hubs with power, then the opposite to see if I get a solution. Right now I can't power on my computer without going to it and taking out all usb cables, which is a pita.
I haven't used active usb cables much, so don't know if they'd be the source of the feedback, since they should only be using the power for their repeaters (in theory). I would try disconnecting the power from the hubs first and see if that solves it. The hub power is not only used for the hub, but also to supply additional power for devices plugged in (as someone said earlier). Power down the pc and unplug the power supplies one at a time starting with the furthest one until the system powers down. That should pin point it.
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Every time I unplugged the usb cables after powering down, the motherboard power died only after taking out all the cables. I'm not sure if I have left the powered ones for the last, though, so I'll do a "controlled" test as you suggested. Thinking about the cables plugged there now, I have other powered devices plugged in. I guess I became burnt in the USB 2.0 times when HDDs would not have enough power without an external power supply haha. There are 5 cables which are:
1) 7-port USB 3.0 hub (+ 2 only for power) - has external power supply. Using 6 or 7 ports with low power devices. This is far from the PC, using a USB 3.0 extension that also has its external power supply. 2) 8-port USB 2.0 hub - has external power supply. Only one or two ports in use, it's just for better location of some RF receivers. 3) 4-HDD USB 3.0 dock - has external power supply. Normally not in use. 4) USB 2.0 extension with 2 ports - has external power supply. Only a bluetooth dongle plugged into it, because USB 3.0 ports interfere. 5) USB 2.0 cable coming with data from the UPS.
I guess I can also take out some of these - like the usb 2.0 hub and the usb 2.0 extension could be replaced with small, unpowered extension cables.
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I finally had the time to test a bit these problems again. This is the 2nd time I write this post because of a crash.
I took out all power sources from hubs/cables but the USB 3.0 hub doesn't work without its own power supply. The problem remained. So I took it out and plugged everything in my USB 2.0 hub, without external power. It was connected to the USB 3.0 cable extension (also without external power). This time when I shut down the computer, the motherboard powered down! (however, if it hadn't, something would be really wrong haha).
I thought the problem would finally go away, although I would lose my USB 3.0 hub, since it doesn't work without its own power supply. However... while using the PC, it crashed, as it often does as soon as I put a bit of load on it. This type of crash goes like this:
The computer stays on, lights on, fans on, although irresponsive
Monitors power down because they detect no signal
I can't shutdown the computer using the power button, even if I keep it pressed for a few seconds. The only way is taking out the power cable or flipping the power source switch.
Since I had to use the computer, I just turned it on again. After some time, after I put some load on it, it crashed again. However this time I had my speakers on, and about a minute before the crash I started hearing the sounds for devices being unplugged and plugged in. When I typed in a search box, windows beeped the error sound. Then the unplugging and unplugging sounds went on like crazy and the PC crashed.
Sooo... I guess this happened because the hub didn't have enough power for the devices when I put the PC under some load. Thus, I removed everything USB 3.0 and plugged in the external power for the USB 2.0 extension, then plugged the USB 2.0 hub in it and all my devices in this hub. The USB 2.0 extension is using an USB 2.0 port.
Let's see what happens now.
PS: To be able to use my USB 3.0 hub, I did some research and found that I could just cut the red wire so power would not be feed back to the motherboard. I cut it but now the cable doesn't work, although all other cables remain intact. I'm trying to resolder the cable to fix it.
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It crashed again and it seems reproducible, although I didn't hear any sounds before crashing anymore. I don't know what else to do with this rig. I don't even have patience for it anymore, it's been nothing but trouble =/
I can't do any work, I can't play a game, anything besides light browsing and it crashes. I found a game (a generic one, it's not even taxing) that if I launch the computer crashes after a few seconds, I don't even get to the main menu.
So, as of now I'm ruling out USB as a cause. I would suspect the power supply but it's not a bad one, it's an XFX of 600W or more and I don't come even close to this wattage. I did look into voltages while in BIOS every now and then but it all seems ok. I'll try to watch it when I put some load.
TL;DR: ultimately I found out that it was either my power supply or my video card that was failing. I couldn't pinpoint which one because both worked almost flawlessly when not paired. I ended up changing my power supply, even though that seemed less likely to be the culprit, because of the USB problems which are not on the 12V line that the video card uses.
philuk11 wrote: Apr 19, 2021 1:40:21 GMT -8 Found i needed to install the software from C: drive
philuk11 wrote: Apr 18, 2021 23:21:36 GMT -8 How do i get round the 'Windows cannot find 'C:\Users\xxx\AppData\Local\Temp\N3080VO.F3.exe'. Make sure you typed the name correctly, and then try again' *
hardcoregames wrote: Apr 16, 2021 17:52:21 GMT -8 what make/model of RAM do you have?*
toriga wrote: Apr 14, 2021 10:06:56 GMT -8 Somebody have tried PBO2 with 5900x (BIOS F33I)
Can you say your settings? I cant find stable settings.
kamiccolo wrote: Apr 13, 2021 15:53:41 GMT -8 Why is gigabyte support not replying to my questions? I submitted a question a week ago and no reply.
kamiccolo wrote: Apr 13, 2021 14:10:05 GMT -8 Why are you limiting my 3090 to 360w??
amchess wrote: Apr 13, 2021 12:29:32 GMT -8 Motherboard: GA-X99-Gaming 5 My cpu Intel® Xeon® E5-2699 v4 has a base fequency 2.20 Ghz, but CPUz shows it's working at 2.0Ghz.What I have to set in the bios to reach the correct base frequency? The multiplier is at 20.
agentx wrote: Apr 13, 2021 8:23:51 GMT -8 I'm getting the same error please help my bios is up to date.
barrybondz wrote: Apr 12, 2021 18:07:25 GMT -8 Anyone with a gigabyte board ever get a LAN error code 10? randomly? Z590 in my case. Clean install newest drivers ect.
luke007 wrote: Apr 12, 2021 13:19:48 GMT -8 Hello, is my GPU ok (RTX 3090 Gaming OC) as I know older revisions had stability issues and bad pins connecting to PSU, but my GPU has SN starts with 2106 so it's manufactured in 6 week of 2021 year, as I heard latest revisions from this year should be ok?*
kshipper wrote: Apr 11, 2021 10:32:54 GMT -8 snibblex: Take a look at BIOS update for that board. Later updates do address RAM issues*
snibblex4 wrote: Apr 11, 2021 10:27:22 GMT -8 would an update to Ryzen 7 3700X fix that ram-underclocking weakness?
snibblex4 wrote: Apr 11, 2021 10:26:25 GMT -8 Hey all, got a X370 Gaming 5 with Ryzen 7 1700. My RAM (4 x G.Skill Trident 3200 with Samsung chips) are only working at 1866 MHz. Cant activate XMP 2.0, because mobo resets the timings to standard, if i do.
wbloon wrote: Apr 10, 2021 14:46:58 GMT -8 Essentially a new build: MB: Gigabyte Aorus Ultra CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X RAM: 4x8=32GB Two 1Tb M.2 NVMe SSD PCIe 4.0
Plan was to configure the two SSDs, in RAID 1, as the new “C” drive. Was able to get into BIOS on first few attempts but the Gigabyte manua
greggg wrote: Apr 9, 2021 15:00:14 GMT -8 Can anyone tell me the secret to getting gigabyte repair service to answer my attempts at contacting them? I want an X470 aorus board fixed ( cannot install windows) and am willing to pay for the work but I cannot connect with I guess, gigabyte...central
toriga wrote: Apr 9, 2021 10:43:19 GMT -8 From when i installed F33, i have my headset wireless of logitech that disconnect every 2 minutes and wifi that disconnect every 1 hour. Today i installed F33I and now my AUDIO CRACKLING. GYGABYTE FIX YOUR BIOS, I PAID MORE OF 400 EUR FOR THIS MOTHERBOARD.*
kshipper wrote: Apr 4, 2021 20:34:45 GMT -8 belmonte: Estoy usando el traductor de Google para comprender lo que me pregunta. ¿Cómo podemos ayudar?
belmonte wrote: Apr 2, 2021 1:34:40 GMT -8 Deseo presentarme pero es imposible escribir un post.
belmonte wrote: Apr 2, 2021 1:34:16 GMT -8 No puedo escribir, soy nuevo y necesito ayuda por favor, soy cliente de hace muchos años de Gigabyte y Fan.
